Trek De Himalayas (Beas kund)

   A forty hour Pune to Manali journey in cramped trains and buses, blistering Delhi heat, never ending traffic snarls on the ghats leading to Manali , a bus driver who had apparently never heard of speed limits – these hardly seem like ideal beginnings of a vacation. But, all these troubles were forgotten when we stepped out of our bus into the cool dawn of Manali.   

    

   First stop was at Prini campsite and we all retired to our tents to rest after the long journey. However, we couldn’t stay inside for long and were out in a couple of hours, admiring the appealing nature. There was a military touch to the campsite, thanks to its owner Khem Raj Thakur, a retired armyman. Lush greenery on a hill slope, cozy tents and the appetizing food had made our day. That evening we went for a stroll through the market and visited the famous Hidimba temple

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Snow bridge

    Next day, we woke up early and started packing for the trek to 'Beas kund'. Trekking sacks, feather jackets and ponchos had us all geared up and excited about the trek.  We drove till Dhundi from where we were to begin the 'Trek De Himalayas'. Dhundi was a fascinating place with bounteous trees and a river, although in its infancy, flowing agitatedly. We crossed it with the help of logs which joined both banks of the river. Soon we could see the extravagant landscapes of ice capped mountains against the backdrop of deep blue skies. The river, lush green trees and the mighty Mt. Hanuman Tibba covered with a blanket of snow was a breathtaking display of nature. The trekkers, who had now turned into photographers got busy in capturing the best possible shots of this enthralling sight. Further ahead, we came across a thick snow bridge arched above the flowing water, which was an alluring way of nature to facilitate the crossing. After a couple hours of walking across the enchanting meadows, we reached the camp site of Bakhartaj. This campsite is situated at the feet of Hanuman tibba which is a majestic peak of Himalaya and , now that we were closer, it appeared mightier than it had from Dhundi

 In the afternoon we were curious to take a look at what they called as 'lady's legs' ( few ridges of a peak). This was the first time we had to cross the icy cold water barefoot. The strong current of water coupled with its chilling effect, benumbed our feet while we crossed it. On our way back to the tents, we were buffeted by rains and cold winds. This was the first time we got a taste of the weather in Himalayas. The first day of trek which began with a variety of picturesque sights ended on a high note because of the nostalgic atmosphere created by songs and conversations  with fellow trekkers in the tent.

Mt. Hanuman Tibba

       Next morning on waking, we were greeted by the sight of the lofty Hanuman tibba gleaming in the early rays of sunlight, its snowy edge contrasting against the blue sky.  That day, we were to climb further up to the Beas kund .  The fact that we had to carry our own tents from here on was a challenge for us, which surprisingly boosted our enthusiasm instead of hampering it. After climbing for some time we halted to rest. We were now at a spot from where one could catch a glimpse of all the peaks in the vicinity. The seven sisters, Deo tibba, Friendship range were a few of those. The Kshitidhar peak which was not visible till now, had made its appearance. Moving on further, we came across perhaps the most annoying patch of terrain known as 'Moraine'.  Moraine, unlike its attractive name, consisted of countless boulders of various sizes piled up in a haphazard manner. Even the larger ones were shaky, ready to tumble down any moment, which made stepping over them a tedious task. However, after this troublesome patch, we were faced with a snowy slope which was a delight to slide on and served to alleviate our suffering of crossing Moraine. 

     We descended onto the glacier of Beas Kund which was nestled in a valley formed by the peaks of Kshitidhar and Hanuman Tibba. Major part of it had a layer of ice, concealing the water flowing underneath. It was a bright sunny morning and the crystal clear skies highlighted the snowy peaks. These were excellent conditions for photography and we didn’t hesitate to take advantage of the favourable weather. We had now reached our last campsite in afternoon and began to pitch tents for our stay at night. Surprisingly, they were pitched on ice instead of dry ground, by the porters, and this could pose a challenge to stay in at night.

Beas kund

            After lunch we started climbing up further to Beas kund ,which is a tiny lake situated at a higher side of this valley and is the heart of the river Beas. We then began the climb up to the Kshitidhar peak. But, the ascent was difficult due to the high altitude, compelling us to take baby steps. We halted at a considerable height which offered us a panoramic view of the other peaks and the glacier. The tents pitched on the ice below looked like pebbles whereas the colossal peak of Hanuman tibba facing us seemed never ending. The rush and high of reaching this height was slowly replaced by a feeling of peace. Deep silence was undoubtedly the most priceless feeling nature could have offered; a calmness which could pacify a mental unrest; such serenity, which could assist a human mind achieve the rare state of thoughtlessness. One however feels completely powerless and feeble amidst these mighty creations, a mere puppet left to the whims and fancies of nature.

       After a while, the conditions up there started getting rough and the porters being well versed with mood swings of the local weather advised us to get back to the tents. Their timing was perfect as it started to rain the moment we got back.  We patiently waited for the rains to stop after which, we came out to eat. . It was getting increasingly colder, assuring us that the night would be a sleepless one. The valley was now filled with fog. At night, the snow underneath our tents made us crave for the comfort of our warm beds back home. It was now a typical subzero condition, freezing us inspite of the multiple thermals we wore.

      The next day was the final day of our trek and we began the descent from Beas kund to Prini campsite. This camp that flagged off our Trek De Himalayas, also marked the end. On the way back, our porters updated us with a tragic news of an accident of a climber on kshitdhar peak. A group of porters carrying medical kit, snow stretcher and other necessities, instantaneously began their climb. Their altruistic act towards another human life was worth admiring.

      Non trekkers may wonder why we do it! Why are we willing to subject ourselves to pain, the risk of injured knees and strained backs, the cold nights spent in a sleeping bag and the altitude sickness. Is it for the rush, or a sense of accomplishment, or to be part of the tranquillity and solitude at high altitudes or is it just to witness the sublime beauty of nature?  It is difficult to answer this question as none of us know why we do it. Perhaps, as someone has rightly said, "somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb."